Walking Ireland's wild northern coast

Distance: 7km Walking time: 1 hour 30 minutes

 

Ballintoy Harbour presents a scenic start to this seven-day walking adventure, although if you have more time, another option is to begin at Ballycastle and visit the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. It’s about a half-hour walk from Ballintoy village to the harbour, which, as well as being a filming location for Game of Thrones®,  is a picturesque cluster of craggy rocks, sea stacks, cottages and fishing boats.

 

Walking along the coast, you’ll pass by White Park Bay, a scenic stretch of golden sand lapped by silver-tipped waves. The beach is only accessible here at low tide when you can hop over some boulders to get to it, but keep an eye on the tides for the way back. Spectacular sights come thick and fast along this stretch of coast, and next up is Dunseverick Castle. Enveloped in layers of history, the castle sits on a promontory fort and was once an ancient royal site, which is thought to date back to the 5th century. Little remains of the original structure, but its position on a craggy basalt stack makes it a showstopper.

Distance: 7km Walking time: 1 hour 50 minutes

 

Benbane Head is one of the most northerly points in Northern Ireland, and the mighty cliffs here offer excellent panoramas of the rugged coastline, with views out of the bird-watching haven of Rathlin Island. But nothing quite prepares you for the next big sight along the route: the Giant’s Causeway.

 

This iconic UNESCO World Heritage Site was formed almost 60 million years ago, and the sight of 40,000 interlocking hexagonal columns that tumble from the cliff top to the sea is not to be missed. To find out more about the Giant’s Causeway, step into the visitor centre and immerse yourself in the legends and myths that make this place so special.

Distance: 6km Walking time: 1 hour 20 minutes

 

The next section of the walk is off-road along a dramatic and beautiful stretch of coastline that takes you around the cliff tops, past Runkerry Head and through an extensive sand dune system into the village of Portballintrae.

 

You have the option of staying overnight in Portballintrae or getting a bus to Bushmills (around 10 minutes away), which offers plenty of accommodation to suit a variety of budgets. If you are staying in Bushmills, it’s worth setting aside some time for a tour of the Old Bushmills Distillery, which boasts over 400 years of history.

Distance: 8km Walking time: 1 hour 45 minutes

 

Starting again at Runkerry Beach car park where you finished the day before, the walk takes you out of the village to the next dramatic site along this coastline – Dunluce Castle. With a spectacularly precarious setting on a rocky headland that looms over the sea below, Dunluce is one of the most impressive medieval buildings on the island of Ireland and a castle has stood here since at least the 13th century.

 

Take time to enjoy the history and stunning views, before embarking on the next 3km section of the route. The striking sights of White Rocks and Curran Strand are a highlight here, and the trail heads along the beach for about 2km before continuing around Ramore Head – look back the way you’ve come, and you’ll be treated to some breathtaking panoramas of Dunluce Castle along the cliffs. A path will bring you around Ramore Head and along to Portrush Harbour.

Distance: 7.5km Walking time: 1 hour 40 minutes

 

Portrush makes a good place to enjoy a tasty lunch, so why not pop into the Ramore wine bar for a well-earned feast? After that, it’s time to get back on track. From Portrush Harbour, follow a path along West Strand and along the A2 for a short section before reaching an interesting promontory that once was home to Ballyreagh Castle. This section boasts beautiful views of the headland in both directions, so stop for a while to soak it all in.

 

After Portstewart Point, you’ll descend a flight of steps down to the picturesque harbour of Portstewart and along the Promenade. The path ends at Portstewart Golf Club, a short distance from the village, where you will have a choice of accommodation options.

Distance: 4.5km Walking time: 1 hour

 

For the most part, today will be a day of travel, so if you want to get some walking in before embarking on your trip, then a good option is the 4.5km Portstewart Cliff Path. It takes about an hour to complete and boasts views of Mussenden Temple. Afterwards, back in Portstewart, take the 140b bus towards Coleraine, a journey of about 30 minutes.

Distance: 4km Walking time: 50 minutes

 

Today, we are just passing through Coleraine, but if you want to stay longer to enjoy the town and its surroundings, then overnighting is an option. If so, we’d recommend a walk in Mountsandel Wood, the earliest known human settlement site on the island of Ireland, followed by lunch or dinner at Lir Seafood.

 

The best way to get from Coleraine to Derry~Londonderry is by train – it’s also the most scenic option. It’s such a gorgeous trip that travel expert Michael Palin has described it as “one of the most beautiful rail journeys in the world”. Along the way, you’ll be treated to spectacular views of Binevenagh Mountain, Benone Strand and the River Foyle. Once you arrive in Derry~Londonderry, check into your accommodation of choice before heading for dinner in one of the city’s excellent restaurants, such as Artis or Browns. Afterwards, enjoy the city’s legendary good-time nightlife at Peadar O’Donnell’s, where the nightly traditional music sessions draw a lively crowd.

Distance: 1km Walking time: 1 hour

 

A walking tour of Derry~Londonderry is not only perfectly on-brand for this trip, but it’s also a great way to explore the city if you’re short on time. You can tailor your tour to suit your interest (Derry Girls fans are well catered for here!), but a good all-round option is the hour-long Martin McCrossan City Tour, which brings you to key locations around the city, including the 17th-century city walls.

 

To get to Glenveagh from Derry~Londonderry, jump on a bus to Letterkenny (around 30 minutes) and then take the Local Link bus 271, which passes through Glenveagh daily.

Distance: 16km Walking time: 2 hours (dependent on trail)

 

You’ll be awed by the majestic landscapes once you enter this stunning national park. Rugged mountains, a baronial-style Victorian castle and pristine natural habitats make it one of the most immersive and beautiful landscapes on the island of Ireland. Walking trails here range from the 8km Glen (Bridle Path) Walk to the 1km Garden Trail, so you can pick something to suit, but one of the best is the Lakeside Walk (3.5km), which takes you out by the water’s edge to the castle. Walk back or opt to take the bus.

 

Glenveagh National Park does not have any accommodation within it, but the Mulroy Woods Hotel, which is about a 30-minute drive away, is a good option for an overnight stay.

Distance: 2km Walking time: 1 hour

 

You can opt to get from Glenveagh to the heritage town of Ardara either via Dungloe or Letterkenny, depending on bus times and availability. Both have a travel time of about two to two and a half hours. Small but scenic, Ardara is known for its woollen and tweed crafts – Donegal Design Makers is a good option for wood pieces, ceramics, textiles and tweed, or try John Molloy Woollen Mills for a range of knitwear. Take your time and stroll around the village. This is a good chance to pick up some supplies for dinner before heading into the wilds of Donegal.

Distance: 10km Walking time: 2 hours 10 minutes

 

Next up it’s time to join the Ireland section of the International Applachian Way. The first part of the route takes you along part of the N56 road, before detouring onto the Slí Cholmcille trail and taking in the beautiful coastal section, with the Atlantic on one side and hills on the other. It’s a peaceful scenic walk along a quiet road with lovely views of the sea, as well as the occasional farmhouse or cottage.

 

As the road weaves inland a little, you’ll pass the romantic Assaranca Waterfall, which cascades down mossy green rocks. Heading onwards you’ll reach the hamlet of Maghera surrounded by rugged green hills, where you’ll overnight. Given its tiny size, Maghera has limited accommodation, but the self-catering Maghera Caves Cottage is a good option in a beautiful location.

Distance: 17km Walking time: 4 hours

 

It’d be a shame to be in Maghera and not visit the beach, so before setting off on today’s walk, leave some time for a stroll on this magnificent strand, with its white sands and clear waters. It’s not safe to swim here, but you can access the caves at the far end of the beach when the tide is low.

 

As you embark on the next section of the walk (following the waymarked ways), there are some things to bear in mind that. Much of the route crosses open countryside, and it’s important to keep your eye out for the trail posts. Similarly, the terrain can be rolling and boggy, so suitable footwear is needed. You’ll often be walking with your back to the sea, so remember to turn around from time to time and enjoy the amazing views down the valley. After walking along the Glen River, the trail turns into a road, but there are great views of lakes, rolling green hills and flowing rivers along the way. Passing Killyfanned Lough, the route continues down a sloping road into the deserted village of Port.

Distance: 13km Walking time: 3 hours

 

Port is an abandoned famine village with breathtaking scenery, and it’s a good place to take a break for a picnic. The scenery becomes even more magnificent as you pass the village and continue along the coast, although it can get quite wet and boggy underfoot along this section.

 

The next major viewing point is a signal tower, with monumental panoramas across the Atlantic Ocean. A short distance from here is the town of Glencolmcille with a folk village, pubs, restaurant and café. Along the coast road from you’ll find your accommodation for the night, the Áras Ghleann Cholm Cille.

Distance: 8km Walking time: 1 hour 50 minutes

 

Take some time to explore the folk village of Glencolmcille before you embark on the last stage of this walking tour – a final hike to the Slieve League Cliffs. Leaving the hostel, it’s an easy walk past sheep, farmhouses and green fields towards Malin More. Check out the Malin More Megalithic Cemetery, with portal tombs and a standing stone from around 2000 BCE.

 

Following the R263 road from Malin More, this section is relatively flat. The road skirts the coast with stunning views from the Malin Beg Viewpoint before heading gently inland again towards Malin Beg. Here, you’ll find the astonishingly beautiful Silver Strand, one of the most spectacular beaches in Donegal, surrounded by cliffs and accessed by 174 steps.

Distance: 14km Walking time: 3 hours

 

You have two options to end your walking adventure. The first should only be attempted by very experienced hikers, with a map, compass and appropriate gear, as it follows the cliff tops from Malin Beg to Slieve League. The route is not waymarked and is very challenging. Expect knife edges, steep sections and difficult conditions underfoot.

 

For many, the second option will be a safer prospect. Follow the R263 road from Glencolmcille to Teelin via Meenavaughran. The scenery is spectacular, but the route is along a two-lane main road, with no hard shoulder and walkers should exercise caution with relation to road traffic.

 

However you get to the Slieve League Cliffs, it’s a destination that won’t disappoint, even after the magnificent scenery you’ve experienced along the route. Wild, rugged and soaring at almost three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, these monumental precipices make a fitting end to an epic journey.